Fall Lawn Seeding
Traditionally we think of spring as the time for planting and fall is reserved
for harvesting and preparing for winter. But when it comes to growing grass,
fall is one of the best times to start a new lawn or improve your existing lawn.
Fall plantings generally have 6 to 8 weeks of good growing weather after germination
and root growth can continue past Thanksgiving. During the winter months your
new lawn will go dormant and be protected under a blanket of snow. By spring,
your new lawn will be mature enough to treat for crabgrass and broadleaf weeds
as needed, without fear of killing off your new seedlings.
Many people assume that to reseed they must start all over by roto-tilling,
re-grading and then seeding. Not true, says David Letourneau, owner of Landscape
Support Service in Goffstown. With the equipment and techniques available today
you have several options before choosing such a drastic measure. Aeration and
over seeding, Slice-seeding or Topdressing with seed are all ways that may accomplish
the same results and save you labor and materials.
For many people, the next question is how do I get started? Whether you plan
on starting over or just want to throw some seed into a few bare spots; a soil
test is a valuable way to insure success with this fall project explains Ryan
Moraros a lawn care technician with Landscape Support Services turf division.
We typically see new lawns with low soil fertility and ph and sometimes organic
content, making it hard for new seedlings to become established and fill in
quickly he stated.
A soil test will tell you about soil fertility and PH and with advanced testing
can give you an idea about specific nutrient deficiencies and what the organic
content of your soil is. All soils are not created equal, and good soil is the
fundamental building block of a good lawn. An ideal lawn soil in New Hampshire
would be a sandy loam with an organic content of 7-10% and a soil ph of about
7. A soil with too much clay or silt will hold too much water and become compacted
easily; soils with low organic content and low ph have trouble utilizing water,
and fertilizer. Spending a few dollars now to amend your soil can save you dollars
in the future. Amendments such as fertilizer, lime, wood ash and compost can
help you create better soils. If you have questions about how or when to use
these products, you can consult your garden center or lawn care professional
for advice.
The other key element to a successful lawn is choosing the proper seed for
your site. Soil type, fertilization, sun exposure, mowing height and mowing
frequency are all factors you may want to consider when choosing a new grass
seed. Consult with your supplier before choosing a seed blend for your new lawn.
Aeration and over seeding is probably the simplest and most cost effective
method of reseeding, for people who have good soils, but have for one reason
or another found there lawn in decline. Aeration can be completed using equipment
you can purchase, rent, or hire a contractor to complete for you. Make sure
to use an aerator that will penetrate the soil at least 1 to 2 inches and will
remove small cores (dirt and thatch) as it moves across the lawn. Then simply
scatter seed in the bare or spotty areas and rake out the cores using a good
leaf rake. This method works well for lawns with little or no thatch where the
seed will easily be able to reach bare soil.
If your lawn has a better established thatch layer, but has thin or bare spots,
slice-seeding may be your best option. Slice-seeding is similar to aeration
and over seeding, but is completed in one pass with a machine that aerates and
seeds at the same time. These machines also tend to provide more aggressive
aeration than an aerator. This will be required for lawns with a thatch layer
as it is essential that new seed reaches bare soil to facilitate germination.
Slice-seeders may be rented or you can hire a contractor to complete this service
for you.
Jack Eaton, General Manager at Landscape Support Services, explained that topdressing
and aeration is commonly used by golf courses to amend soils and reduce compaction.
With today’s newer equipment, this is an excellent cost effective method of
amending the existing soil and seeding without disturbing existing turf. The
first step in this process involves killing any existing weeds with a total
herbicide such as glyphosate. Make sure to read the label and note the time
required, between application and reseeding. This will be at least seven days
and may be much longer. Consult you garden center or lawn care provider if you
have any questions about these products. The lawn is then aerated as described
earlier in this article. A thin layer of loose soil and or soil amendments is
then applied to the surface, generally not to exceed half an inch. This is typically
done by hand, with a shovel, with a tractor mounted topdresser or with a blower,
similar to Landscape Support Services Express Blower. Seed may be mixed with
these amendments or applied after by broadcast spreader. This method provides
a perfect seed bed encouraging rapid germination and turf establishment. Although
more labor intensive than the first two options, this method works remarkably
well at significant cost savings over total renovation. This would also be an
excellent choice for slopes and drainage areas where erosion of tilled soils
may be a problem.
And finally, in some cases, total renovation will be your answer. Begin as
you would with topdressing and kill any existing weeds in your lawn. Tilling
is not a guarantee that these weeds will not reemerge and take over your new
lawn. Till your lawn to a depth of about four inches, regrade and amend the
soil as needed. Do not over compact the soil as you grade. Your feet should
make at least a quarter inch depression as you walk across the lawn. A lawn
roller, one quarter to one third full, is generally more than adequate to properly
compact your new soil. After this is complete, seed and mulch the area with
straw to prevent runoff, or have the area hydroseeded by a local contractor.
Watering your new lawn until it begins to mature is crucial. Light watering
several times a day is generally best for seed that hasn’t germinated. Take
care to insure that you are not over watering causing runoff or erosion. After
your seedlings have germinated, you can begin to slowly decrease your daily
watering to once a day for longer intervals.
No matter what method you have used, it will take your new grass
seedlings about seven to fourteen days to begin to germinate and
will take several more weeks to begin to fill in. Take this time
to develop a maintenance plan for the upcoming season. Try to establish
what may have caused your lawn to go into decline. Consult with
a turf professional at your garden center or with a lawn care provider,
about how you can prevent this type of expense in the future. Discuss
what your expectations are for your lawn and what potential uses
your lawn will be required to endure. These factors will help you
to determine what type of lawn maintenance program is right for
you. Good luck and enjoy your new lawn!!
Before Topdressing
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After Topdressing |
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